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The Self-Coached Climber

I always found it easier to learn technique by watching, and of course lots of practice. The Neil Gresham Masterclass videos are great for the fundamentals, I remember watching them in my first year as a climber and they really helped. They're on YouTube I believe.

The Self-Coached Climber

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If you really want a book then '9 out of 10 climbers' addresses the fundamentals of why people don't improve and how to address it. It won't give you any specific training advice. But I really like it and have a read every now and again.

I would recommend Logical Progression by Steve Bechtel and Rock Climbers Training Manual by the Anderson Brothers over any of those. I've owned the first 3 and New Alpinism. New Alpinism is not at all specific to rock climbing, Steve House's site has a program for rock climbing that is essentially the Anderson Brother training plan. Horst is reasonably good for getting up to 5.12, but I think that his plans might be more complicated than the average climber actually needs without any added benefit. Self Coached climber is really good honestly but I find it a bit out dated.

Just climbed my first 11d outside after 2 years of training, here are some points that may help you:1) Climb 2x a week on rope. Bouldering 1x per week.2) You need to try really hard on the attempts in 1). (Watch other good climbers how much effort they give when training...)3) You need to find right balance between training and recovery, you won't progress if you are 100% over-trained, and not healing properly.4) Learn about 3 energy systems, and realize you need to train them all.5) Work on your diet, eat healthy, pay attention on what you eat and how you recover. Also make sure you eat right nutrients for tendons, joints & ligaments.6) On off days work on antagonist exercises for shoulders and elbows/forearms.7) Gently experiment with finger board training, also listen to this: -simple-fingers/

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes by Dave MacLeod. He gives a realistic view on how to improve (hint: he doesn't recommend the endless hangboard/campusing/workout routines that these other books will slow you down with.)

A typical case is Joe from San Diego. An experienced runner and triathlete, Joe had been chasing a sub-three-hour marathon for nearly twenty years when I began to work with him. Previously Joe had been self-coached, and like almost all self-coached runners, he did a lot more moderate-intensity training and a lot less low-intensity training than he thought he did. Getting him to slow down was a challenge. While Joe accepted the 80/20 philosophy in principle, out on the road he kept reverting to old habits. At last, with the help of the PEAR Mobile app, I got Joe to slow down. When he did, his energy level skyrocketed, and we were able to put that energy to good use by adding a few extra miles to his training schedule. In May 2012, at the age of forty-seven, Joe completed the Orange County Marathon in 2:59:20.

"Mountain climbing guide Rob Hall believed that his expedition plan would get the Mount Everest climbers in his charge onto and down from the summit. He believed his hard rule that the team would turn around at 2 p.m. if they were not yet on top of the mountain would protect the climbers from disaster. He believed that allowing his climbers to express any dissenting views while the expedition made the final push would hurt their chances of success.

Evidence suggests he saw the climb as a "now or never" opportunity for his charges. However, other climbers including filmmaker David Breashears and his team who were on the mountain at the same time got to the top and down in following days. This "all or nothing" thinking suggests that Hall was trapped by a False Dilemma (when the choice is presented as being between two options, when in fact one or more additional options exist)."


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